Dhaulagiri Expedition

Dhaulagiri: The Majestic White Mountain Expedition

Introduction: Dhaulagiri, standing proudly at 8,167 meters and often referred to as the White Mountain, reigns as the seventh-highest peak globally and stands as one of the most sought-after challenges for Himalayan expeditions. Nestled in the Dhaulagiri Himal subrange of the Himalayas, situated in the Dhaulagiri Zone of north-central Nepal, this colossal peak serves as the eastern anchor of the range.

Geographic Charms: Situated northwest of Pokhara, a town of regional importance and a bustling tourist center, Dhaulagiri overlooks the deep gorge of the Kali Gandaki River to the east. Across this gorge lies the Annapurna Himal, home to Annapurna I, one of the revered eight-thousanders.

Historical Significance: In 1808, when Dhaulagiri was initially discovered, it was believed to be the highest mountain in the world for Western explorers. It maintained this distinction for three decades until Kanchanjunga claimed its throne. Dhaulagiri presents itself as a spectacular peak, soaring like a giant shoulder adorned with glistening ice and snow.

Ascent Routes and Triumphs: The South and West faces of Dhaulagiri exhibit breathtaking drops, each rising over 4000 meters from its base. These faces have witnessed historical climbs, with the first conquest taking place in 1960 via the North East Ridge – a route that has become the norm for subsequent ascents. The triumphant team, comprising Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji, and Nawang Dorji, members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition, etched their names in history on May 13, 1960.

Northeast Ridge Exploration: The Northeast Ridge route was initially scouted one year before the successful ascent by an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec. This groundbreaking climb marked the first Himalayan expedition supported by a fixed-wing aircraft, a Pilatus PC-6, which unfortunately crashed during an approach and was later abandoned in Hidden Valley north of the mountain.

Diverse Routes of Ascent: Dhaulagiri’s commanding presence is buttressed by five ridges, offering a plethora of ascent possibilities. Six distinct routes have been established for climbing, with the Normal Route being the most frequently pursued. Despite this, intrepid climbers have embraced ascents from various directions, showcasing the mountain’s allure.

Geographical Grandeur: The Dhaulagiri Expedition unfolds against the backdrop of a 30-mile-long crest, defining the structure of an intricately woven landscape of twisting ridges, glaciers, and icefalls. Along this main crest, pyramid-shaped peaks rise dramatically, each towering 7000 meters over the Kali Gandaki Gorge to the southeast within a 30km span.

Historical Footnotes: The first ascent of Dhaulagiri took place on May 13, 1960, led by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition, marking a monumental achievement in mountaineering history. While most subsequent ascents have traced the northeast ridge route of the first conquest, climbs from various directions have added to the mountain’s mystique. As of 2007, there have been 358 successful ascents and 58 fatalities, testifying to the challenges that this magnificent peak poses.

Pioneering Spirit: The journey towards Dhaulagiri’s summit was not without challenges. French attempts, reconnaissance missions, Swiss failures, and the eventual triumph of the Swiss expedition in 1960, all lend an air of adventure and determination to the mountain’s legacy. The circuitous route taken by the Swiss party, starting from Tukuche and traversing the Dhampus pass, culminated in a triumphant summit.

Aerial Support and Sacrifices: The French, unable to conquer the summit from the North-East Col, sought assistance from a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft named the “Yeti.” The aircraft, landing on the North-East Col at 5977m, supported the expedition but met a tragic end near Dhampus pass. The pilots, including the renowned Emil Wick, undertook a courageous descent on foot to Tukuche, leaving an indelible mark on the annals of exploration.

Dhaulagiri, with its towering presence and storied history, stands as an emblem of the indomitable human spirit and the relentless pursuit of conquering nature’s grandest challenges.

Exquisite Himalayan Journey: Dhaulagiri Expedition Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport Upon your arrival, be welcomed with vibrant flower garlands or traditional Khadas. Our representative will accompany you to your hotel, providing an opportunity for a serene start to your Himalayan adventure. If time allows, visit our office for paperwork. Overnight stay at a Kathmandu hotel.

Day 2: Trip Preparation and Kathmandu Exploration Embark on a day of preparation and delve into the cultural richness of Kathmandu or opt for the enchanting sights of Patan and Bhaktapur. Visit UNESCO World Heritage monuments, including Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudhanath, Swayambhunath, or explore the cultural wonders of Bhaktapur and Patan. Return to your hotel in the late afternoon for a tranquil evening. Overnight stay at a Kathmandu hotel.

Day 3: Final Preparation Day in Kathmandu Utilize this day for final expedition preparations in the vibrant city of Kathmandu. Immerse yourself in the anticipation of the journey ahead. Overnight stay at a Kathmandu hotel.

Day 4: Drive from Kathmandu to Beni Embark on a scenic nine-hour drive from Kathmandu to Beni. Traverse the picturesque Marshyangdi, passing through terraced fields and small hill towns. Witness the beauty of Pokhara, a tourist’s paradise with its lakes, caves, and temples. Descend to Nayapul, capturing views of Annapurna South and the Fish Tail. Reach Beni, situated along the Mardi River, offering one of the most picturesque road journeys. Overnight stay at a lodge.

Day 5: Journey from Beni to Darbang A five-hour drive takes you to Darbang, followed by a four-hour trek to Takum. Ascend through a narrow path, traverse flat lands through a jungle adorned with rhododendrons, oaks, and Christmas trees. Cross a small stream and reach Takum, where you camp behind the school amidst the central village. Discover a Hindu temple, a testament to the village’s spiritual connection. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 6: Trek from Darbang to Muri via Takum Embark on a five-hour trek, descending through a jungle before ascending to reach Muri. This small village, primarily inhabited by Gurung and Rai communities, offers a glimpse into Nepal’s ethnic diversity. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 7: Trek from Muri to Naura A five-hour trek leads you from Muri to Naura, an elevation of 1570 meters. Immerse yourself in the serene landscapes and set up camp for the night. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 8: Journey from Naura to Bagar Descend through a forested area to reach Bagar (2080m). Camp in the mountain village, utilizing people’s yards or terraced fields for an immersive experience. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 9: Trek from Bagar to Dobhang Leave the villages behind as you tackle a challenging trail, marking a shift into more demanding terrain. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 10: Trek from Dobhang to Chaur Bag Khola Embark on a five-hour trek to Chaur Bag Khola (3445 m), also known as Sallaghari. Experience the transition through diverse landscapes and set up camp. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 11: Trek from Chaur Bag Khola to Italian Base Camp A four-hour trek takes you through a beautiful forest, steadily gaining altitude. Camp on the glacier rubble and prepare for the challenges ahead. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 12: Journey from Italian Base Camp to Japanese Camp Embark on a five-hour trek, crossing the first glacier with the support of a rope in tricky spots. Climb onto the main glacier, surrounded by spectacular landscapes. This demanding day ends with camping on the glacier rubble. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 13: Trek from Japanese Camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp Transition from rough rubble to the smooth ice of the glacier. Climb steadily to the awe-inspiring Dhaulagiri Base Camp, situated at 4748 meters. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 14-43: Climbing Period (Base Camp – Summit 8167 m – Base Camp) of Dhaulagiri Mountain Embark on the thrilling ascent of Dhaulagiri, the world’s seventh-highest peak. Establish three high camps before making the final summit push. Experience the magic of the mountains under the starry Himalayan sky. Stay in camps during this period.

Day 44: Trek from Dhaulagiri Base Camp to Hidden Valley via French Pass Embark on a scenic trek from the base camp to Hidden Valley via French Pass (5010m). Traverse ice-covered trails and relish the stunning views of the Dhaulagiri range. Camp amidst the enchanting surroundings. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 45: Trek from Hidden Valley to Yak Kharka Traverse avalanche-prone slopes and descend steeply to reach Yak Kharka. The journey unfolds through bare land, offering mesmerizing views of the Nilgiri, Annapurna, and rocky hills. Set up camp and immerse yourself in the serene surroundings. Overnight stay at the camp.

Day 46: Trek from Yak Kharka to Marpha Embark on a five-hour trek downhill until Marpha, passing through small forests of juniper. Enjoy splendid views of Nilgiri, Annapurna, and rocky hills along the way. Stay overnight at a camp or lodge.

Day 47: Drive from Marpha to Pokhara Embark on a scenic Jeep or bus journey from Marpha to Pokhara. Enjoy the picturesque landscapes, green sceneries, and the vibrant life of the local communities. Arrive in Pokhara for a tranquil evening. Overnight stay at a hotel in Pokhara.

Day 48: Drive from Pokhara to Kathmandu After breakfast, embark on a seven-hour drive from Pokhara to Kathmandu. Alternatively, opt for a short 25-minute flight. Revel in the mountain views, lush sceneries, and daily life activities along the way. Overnight stay at a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 49: Free Day in Kathmandu Enjoy a day of leisure in Kathmandu for shopping and relaxation. Immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere and cultural richness of the city. Overnight stay at a hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 50: Departure As per your flight schedule, our airport representative will escort you from your hotel to the airport for your final departure. Cherish the memories of an extraordinary Himalayan expedition as you bid farewell to the enchanting landscapes of Nepal

Exquisite Expedition: Dhaulagiri Himalayas Alternative Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu

Upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, a warm traditional welcome awaits. Our representative will greet you with flower garlands and escort you to your hotel. Take a leisurely stroll in the afternoon, exploring the local shops, restaurants, and bars. Enjoy welcome drinks at your hotel and stay overnight in Kathmandu.

Day 02: Trip Preparation and Kathmandu Exploration

Embark on a city tour, visiting Kathmandu’s UNESCO World Heritage sites like Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudhanath, Swoyambhunath, and Pashupatinath. Alternatively, explore the cultural riches of Bhaktapur and Patan. Return to your hotel in the late afternoon, savoring the enchantment of the city. Stay overnight in Kathmandu.

Day 03: Final Preparation Day

Spend your final preparation day in Kathmandu for the upcoming expedition. Ensure all equipment is in order. Stay overnight at your hotel, anticipating the journey ahead.

Day 04: Scenic Drive to Pokhara

Embark on an early morning drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara, a seven-hour journey filled with picturesque landscapes. Alternatively, opt for a 25-minute flight. Pokhara, a tourist’s paradise, welcomes you with its lakes, caves, monasteries, and stunning mountain views. Stay overnight in Pokhara.

Day 05: Drive to Marpha

After breakfast, drive from Pokhara to Marpha, a journey of approximately four hours. Begin acclimatization at Marpha, ensuring all camping and climbing equipment is ready. Stay overnight at a lodge in Marpha.

Day 06: Rest Day at Marpha

Take a day of rest at Marpha for acclimatization. Verify the readiness of all equipment for camping and climbing. Stay overnight at the lodge.

Day 07-09: Trek to Hidden Valley and Dhaulagiri Base Camp

Embark on a trek from Marpha to Yak Kharka, progressing towards Hidden Valley, and finally reaching Dhaulagiri Base Camp. The enchanting landscapes unfold as camping begins. Stay overnight at camps along the trail.

Day 10-40: Climbing Period of Dhaulagiri Mountain

Initiate the climbing period, establishing three high camps before the final summit push on the world’s seventh-highest peak. Experience the thrill of camping amid these majestic heights.

Day 41-42: Trek from Base Camp to Hidden Valley

Trek from Dhaulagiri Base Camp to Hidden Valley via French Pass, encountering ice-covered trails and mesmerizing views of the Dhaulagiri range. Stay overnight at camps along the route.

Day 43: Trek to Marpha

Traverse avalanche-prone slopes and descend steeply to Yak Kharka. Enjoy the bare landscapes as you trek to Marpha. Stay overnight in a camp or lodge.

Day 44-45: Return to Pokhara and Kathmandu

Drive from Marpha to Pokhara by Jeep or bus, then continue your journey to Kathmandu. Revel in the scenic views, including mountain landscapes and terraced fields. Stay overnight in Pokhara and Kathmandu.

Day 46: Leisure Day in Kathmandu

Enjoy a free day in Kathmandu for shopping and recreation. Immerse yourself in the vibrant local atmosphere. Stay overnight at your hotel.

Day 47: Departure

Our airport representative will transfer you from your hotel to the airport, bidding you farewell for your final departure. Reflect on the breathtaking journey through the Himalayas. Safe travels!

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Breathtaking Inclusions: Full Board Expedition Service

Includes:

1. Arrival and Departure Services:

  • Transfers to and from KTM International Airport.
  • Assistance at Kathmandu International Airport by Altitude Adventures (A2) during arrival and departure.

2. Accommodation and Meals:

  • 4-night hotel stay in Kathmandu with breakfast.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfast, lunch, and dinner) with tea/coffee.
  • Accommodation at hotel/lodge/guest house or tent camps during trekking.
  • Camping accommodation for members and staff during trekking and climbing.
  • High-altitude food for all at base camp and above as required.

3. Expedition Personnel:

  • Experienced and government-licensed trekking and climbing Sherpa guide.
  • Appropriate number of porters during trekking.
  • One experienced, trained, government-licensed and 3-time submitter climbing guide (Sherpa) per person.
  • Services of chef and kitchen assistant at advanced base camp.

4. Equipment and Gear:

  • Common climbing equipment (Rope, ice bars, ice screws, and snow bar).
  • Trekking Permit (Annapurna Conservation Park entry fee).
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Expedition royalty and permit of Nepal government to climb Mt. Dhaulagiri.
  • Emergency oxygen mask and regulator.

5. Medical Support:

  • Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic.
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for all involved expedition staff.
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff.
  • Gamow Bags (Portable hyperbaric chambers) for high altitude sickness.
  • 2 Bottles (8L) of Poisk Oxygen provided for each member.

6. Camp and Communication Facilities:

  • Tents for base camp, camp I, II, and III.
  • Solar panel for light and electronics charging.
  • Satellite phone carried by guide for communication (Available to clients at a cost).

7. Logistics and Miscellaneous:

  • Land transportation during climbing expedition.
  • Daily weather report services from Seattle, Washington based company.
  • Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties.
  • EPI cooking gas and stove provided in camp I, III, and South Col for cooking food.
  • Transportation of food supply from Kathmandu to base camp by porter/mules.
  • Complete pre-departure information.

8. Farewell and Souvenirs:

  • Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a cultural show.
  • Altitude Adventures (A2) special gift.

Excludes:

1. Meals and Personal Expenses:

  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
  • Any extra food, snacks, drinks, or personal expenses beyond prescribed meals.

2. Communication and Gear:

  • Expenses towards usage of communication devices.
  • Personal climbing gear.
  • Walkie-talkies.

3. Unforeseen Expenses:

  • Expenses arising from unforeseen situations (natural calamities, political disturbances, etc.).
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests, and hospitalization expenses.
  • Travel insurance and helicopter rescue.

4. Miscellaneous:

  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition equipment.
  • Laundry expenses, tips, and personal items.
  • International airfare and Nepal entry visa fee.
  • Extra services, products, or activities not mentioned in the itinerary.
  • Any other item not included in the cost includes section.